22.5 Degree Corner Clamping

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22.5 Degree Corner Clamping

Postby Bob » Fri Apr 10, 2009 1:02 pm

Hi! I guess everyone has some difficulties when it comes to clamping miter corners. I incorporate 22.5 deg. columns in many of my cabinets and I always struggle with this particular joint. There is usually not enough space to use face frame screws, unless a face is left proud and planed, creating an extra step. I've used splines, double-sided tape created a support structure for screws from behind all the while hoping that the joint will be strong enough.
I've seen the new 22.5 deg. routerbit sets and wondered if anyone has tried these and with what results?
With the 45 deg. locked miter bit that I have used, care must be taken with slightly bowed stock say, using feather-boards to keep the stock flat on the table. Any special tips when using this bit set?
Thanks!
Bob
 
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22.5 Degree Lock Miter

Postby MLCS-Mitch » Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:48 am

The 22.5 degree Lock Miter set works very well, but practice on some scrap stock first and save a sample of a good joint. Similar to the 45degree lock miter the set up is the key to this set.
1) Make sure your stock is planed to exactly the same thickness.
2) Bowed stock will cause gaps in the joint, use featherboards.
3) Use tape to hold the joint together, then follow that with a Merle Clamp.
The steel band will put even pressure on all the joints at the same time.
If the project is tall use a bunch of clams to keep the pressure even the length of the project.

I hope this helps-
MLCS-Mitch
MLCS Woodworking Staff
MLCS Woodworking Staff
 
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Re: 22.5 Degree Corner Clamping

Postby Bob » Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:16 pm

Thanks Mitch for the suggestions. I've bought the 22.5 degree locked miter set and cannot find detailed setup instructions anywhere. Some sites that have similar bits state that one piece is run flat on the table face-up and the other is ran vertical against the fence. But that is the process for a single locked miter bit. With a two bit set, there seems little reason to run one piece vertically and in fact, when I've ran some test stock, both pieces face up on the table, the joint seems to go together fine. Am I missing something about running one piece vertical against the fence?
One thing that I do though, is to tape a straight scrap piece to the stock since the entire edge is removed. This helps protect the delicate miter edge also.
Bob
 
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