"The Flatbed" Horizontal Router Table
Horizontal Router Table
- Make Raised Panels / Compatible Bits
Don't stand stock on edge! Much safer and more accurate than standing wide stock on edge.
The multiple routing operation Horizontal Router Table makes tall auxiliary fences, multiple featherboards or jigs UNNECESSARY.
Quickly and easily make mortise & tenon joinery, raised panels with vertical raised panel bits, moldings and picture frames.
Features micro adjustable bit height adjustments. 1/16" per turn allows for very precise adjustments: (1/4 turn = 1/64", 1/2 turn = 1/32", 3/4 turn = 3/64").
The table is 24" wide x 20" deep x 25" high with a sturdy 3/4" thick MDF core, durable melamine surface and polyethylene plastic edges.
3/4" thick MDF core with melamine surface extension fences, on both sides of the router plate give maximum support to long stock.
The 3/8" thick, 11-3/4" x 11-1/2" router plate is held in routing position by sturdy aluminum extrusions, along with two locking knobs which safely secure the sliding router plate in position.
Use with 3 HP routers or less. Raise or lower your router up to 2-1/8" below or 2-3/8" above the table.
Raised Panel Door Instructions are included!
NOTE: Router and router bit are not included.
Horizontal Table Package
Includes Vertical Raised Panel router bit 1/2" shank set (#8350), plus the Horizontal Router Table. List $279.90. SAVE $39.95!
Horizontal Table Package
Includes 3 Solid Carbide Spiral Upcut router bits (#5146, #7467, #7468), plus the Horizontal Router Table. List $276.80. SAVE $26.85!
Horizontal Table Package
all customer reviews and ratings
Average Customer Rating: (6 reviews)
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By Emlyn Jones (West Chester PA US)
The table was easy to assemble and the assembly directions were among the most accurate I have used. The table itself is well made and well machined. I used the machine to construct a sliding dovetail in a table leg and skirt board with excellent results.
The only downside was a need for some shims to bring the router plate flush with uprights and fence. Masking tape works but shims would be much more professional.
By Phil Rankin (New Iberia LA US)
This was one of the best tools I have ever aquired. It performed flawlessly for some moulding I needed to make. I recommend it highly to any woodworker.
By Roger Burleigh (WESTPORT ISLAND ME US)
I have to agree with the previous reviews to some degree, but it was obvious to me that MLCS had made an effort to correct some of the previous shortcomings the table had. First of all the wooden block that attaches to the plexiglas router plate is now pre-drilled even though the instructions to drill it yourself are still included. Unfortunately, this does not improve the smoothness of operation when raising or lowering the router. Don't misunderstand me, it works, but not with the smoothness you'd like to have. I believe both wooden pieces should be replaced with metal, providing more precise alignment.
I had no problems with the directions, probably because they were written in this country and not China. Years of trying to understand translated Chinese directions, made using the ones from MLCS a snap!
Let's talk about dust collection for a minute. In the on-line video the entire table is dropped into a recess built into the bench and this recess contains the dust collection system. Not feasible for those of us who don't want to build a new bench or seriously rebuild an existing one.
Sealing up the rear of the table looked like a difficult proposition to me, so I chose to build a fixture that slides into the front opening under the table with a 4" hose connection. Easy enough to build, but it doesn't address blocking off the lower opening in the rear under the router plate. To accomplish this I cut a piece of scrap 1/8" plexiglas to fit the opening side to side and somewhat lower than the motor of the router will ever have to go. Then I cut slots that corresponded with the lower router plate bolts so the router plate could be adjusted up and down, while my "lower rear seal plate" could remain in place. It works fine and the 4" hose coming out the front is no problem to operation. MLCS might give this method some thought and provide some other hose attachment method, as I feel dust collection is an important part of most shop operations.
With all this said, being able to run various projects over a horizontal router is a vast improvement in safety and convenience, take it from a guy with a couple chewed up fingers to prove it.
By Anonymous ( US)
By Warren Froggatt (Spotsylvania Va US)
I just got a MLCS Horizontal Router Table. In summary, what I got was a kit. If you want to just screw it together and get to work it ain't happening.
The alignment of everything is close but not close enough for wood working. You will find the mounting block to far forward so it pushes the router plate to far forward.
You will find it impossible to get a smooth up and down travel on the router plate. The bolts bind in the tracks because the router plate holes don't align with the tracks the hold down bolts ride in. I'm thinking about drilling the pre-drilled holes in the router plate a little larger to give the bolts a little more slack to release some of the binding. And trust me, I worked hard to get the holes on the router plate to align with the tracks in the aluminum posts.
Don't get me wrong here. I am not trying to get the router plate to travel with the smoothness of a fine machined part. I just don't want to have to fight with it to get the router plate travel to work.
You will find (and this is the most important) the router plate is not flush with the horizontal pieces your work rests on.
You cannot use a tool like this when the relationship to the bit is not 90 degrees to the surfaces you ride the wood on. Plan on spending time shimming to get this accomplished.
The extruded aluminum is not to spec with the router plate or the plate is not to spec with the extruded aluminum. So -you will be shimming the router plate to be even with the face of the extruded aluminium.
However, once you have your DIY kit together and shimmed and tweaked properly so everything aligns as needed - IT WORKS.
I like having a horizontal router.
However I don't think all the trouble I went through to get it together properly was worth the cost. Some simple QA checks during the manufacture of this product would make it a very good product.
Please MLCS add these to your QA checks during manufacture.
1 - make the runner on the extruded aluminum the same depth as the thickness of the router plate. Or if you already purchased a bunch of them, purchase router plates that match the depth of the extruded aluminum track.
You could also just add a roll of UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) tape to the kit. This would allow us to shim easier since it is definitely going to have to be done.
2 - Make the router plate mounting block line up with the bottom of the track on the aluminum posts the router plate rides on.
The above 2 QA checks will ensure the surfaces relate 90 degrees to the bit. Which if you just make sure that happens then you will have a very good product.
By Aaron Short (Brooklyn Ne US)
First off, let me say that I am a MLCS advocate. From my previous personal purchases, I have been very happy with the products and service. That is why when there was a good deal on this router table, I jumped on it. This is something that I have been looking at for awhile and needed the push to get me there and they did it. Let me break it down in a couple of areas...
I have found that ordering with MLCS to be very easy, fast and efficient. And if you have any questions, they are there to answer on the spot.
Before this purchase, I have found MLCS products to be of great quality and great price. Thats why I was a little let down with this router table (stay with me). When this table was shipped, it had all of the parts and instructions needed. The instructions were not the best and need some clarification. When it came time to drill the holes in the wood support that raises and lowers the router plexi, it did not tell you what to orient it to. I picked by setting the threaded rod perpendicular to the top wood plate. When after drilling the wholes the threaded rod was really out of line to have it raise and lower smoothly (they do give you a template, but do not recommend using it. The reason is, if the threaded shaft is out of line like mine was, you will be drilling the holes in the wrong location. This will ensure correct location evertime no matter if the thread rod is perfect or not). You should dry fit everything with the plexi in place, make sure the threaded rod is perpendicular to the top plate. Clamp the plexi to the lower wooden block, mark the holes and drill. This will ensure that the unit works like it should. I called the help line and ask what I should do and they were very willing to have me send it back and they would send me a new one.
The second issue I had was that the plexi that holds the router was 3/32" thinner on the out feed side. It doesn't sound like a lot, but your work piece will hit the aluminum extrusion and cause your work to stop. Very dangerous and scary. Solution, layer tape between the aluminum and plexi till you achieve desired level. Great? No, but it works and have not had a problem with it. Mlcs told me (and I agree) that it is hard to regulate manufacturing of this type of product.
That was about it for the issues. The table is nice and flat and it really makes nice panel doors safetly! I love this table! I would recommend it to anyone!