Multi-Joint Spacing System
1/4" Box Joint
3/8" Box Joint
1/2" Box Joint
- Multi-Joint Video
- Rabbet-Lap Joint Video
Produce many different joints! Limitless jointing system produces the following joints: 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" box joints, plus any width rabbet, dado, spline and sliding dovetail joint - no limits. Quick and easy set-up with the included 4 brass set-up bars. Glides smoothly with UHMW glide bars. 24" base constructed with sturdy MDF and durable laminated surface works on most router tables. For table-mounted use only. Clamps and router bits are not included. Use straight and spiral upcut bits for rabbet, dado, and spline joints. Optional router bits for dovetail and box joints are below. System Includes Instructions, plus:
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By Randy Blackstock Custom Wood Designs (Austin TX US)
As a new adventurous into box joint, joinery and after study and research I optioned for the router table version The MLCS Multi Joint System as for me swapping out a router bit is much more to my liking apposed to swapping out a tablesaw blade plus it’s easier and leaves a cleaner cut. I’ve had this system for a good while and after trial and error during the learning phase, I now have a good grasp on how it works, am pleased with how it preforms, it’s ease in use and ready to write a review on it, once I got the hang of it I’ve been making flawless joints that look very professional, the bits I use are Whiteside up-spiral bits, I’ve learned that practically all of the box joint jigs work on the same principle be it tablesaw or router table it’s just a matter of ones liking and preference be it tablesaw or router table though I have heard that a router bit leaves a cleaner cut as mentioned earlier, I believe that all jigs share the same principle in that they work or use a key and spacing system and in order to have a smooth joint the spacing has to be precise any minute fluctuation in the spacing can leave for a bad joint, 1. A gap between each pin (box joint) and slot is caused by a key (spacing) that’s too close to the bit meaning when first setting up for the cut depending on the size of your joints when spacing between the bit and the guide pin or guide bar the spacing was to close between the two, 2. If the pins (box joint) won’t fit in the slots at all, the key was setup too far away from the router bit when spacing between the guide pin or guide bar, 3. If you have an offset from the top and bottom of the box sides this is caused by not having the workpiece fully seated against the key before making the cut.
The MLCS system offers 1/4” 3/8” and 1/2” joints along with sliding dove tails, it is packaged with everything you need to make these cuts including a 5 PC brass bar set-up 1/8” 3/16” 1/4” 3/8” 1/2” does not come with router bits,
Cons: The only thing that got me off track was the video, it is misleading and incorrect in a couple areas, 1st in the setup when adjusting the height, the video leads you to use the spacer brass bar, this is *WRONG* don't use the brass bar instead use the work piece that you are going to cut, by laying it flat against the bit, and leaving about a 64th or less above it, example say you are making 3/8" joints but your work piece is 5/8" thick you use the 3/8” bar and make your cut, it's going to leave you way short on both ends. 2ed in setting up, the video teaches you to pinch the brass bar between the guide rail and the bit once again that is *WRONG*, if you have the space to tight it will leave for loose joints after cutting, you want the brass bar to move freely between the guide rail and the bit but without any play, also in the video when doing the multi-board cut they fail to mention that this is only good for 1/2" 3/8" and 1/4" wide boards if you are doing 9/16 or 5/8 this method won't work.
all-in-all I am very pleased with it.