Router Bits & Woodworking Products

Average Customer Rating: (5 reviews)
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By Scott Walton (Lynnfield MA US)

I bought this set 2years ago, use them often and love the ease of using them. They sharpen easily. Their blades last a long time and if your not centered exactly, all you need to do is a quick planing to get things flush!

By Ken Wills (Elmwood IL US)

This does make a strong and pretty edge but it is not a fast method to do it. These bits are hard to set up by the method shown in the video because they have to be perfectly centered on the work piece or the shoulders will be different widths and it won't work; it will leave a gap on one side of the finished panel. To make setup simpler, make a trial cut on one edge, flip it upside down and cut the same side again. If the bit cuts off more stock on the second pass, it isn't centered and you will have to raise or lower the bit. I, too, found out that the tear out on the plywood cross grain was bad. I wonder if it would be a good idea to make the tongue bit cut a a small shoulder perpendicular to the plywood face on each side. That would allow you to run the plywood directly against the fence, leaving the same small shoulder on the plywood, eliminating the need for taping a board to it. (By setting up the fence very accurately, I was able to eliminate that step but it takes a long time to do it.) I also found that trying to use the straight bit to cut off the excess didn't work very well. It helps if you have a fence on the table that you can raise up the width of the exposed portion of the male piece, allowing it to go under the fence. I finally just sanded them off with a belt sander.

By Richard Farris (Columbia SC US)

I just bought a set of the 7733 edge banding sets. I have pretty much used face framing and plate joinery to cover ply. Thought these might be a better way to cover it up. Boy was I wrong. I watched a tutorial to show how to set them up, which I followed, and the cuts were so far off it was ridiculous. Finally I worked out a way to get them somewhat aligned. This took over an hour and lots of scrap to achieve. Secondly the tear out with the ply groove cutter was atrocious. I tried changing router speed, feed speed, hold downs, passes through the blades, and ply. None seemed to work. While MLCS makes some good products, this is not one of them.

By Brian Ericson (Placerville Ca US)

I bought the 60 degree set a couple of years ago - works great. The finished product is virtually seamless! I just watched the instructional video online and I learned that when cutting the groove you need to place a scrap piece of wood on top as a guide against the router fence - otherwise the piece of plywood gets smaller and the edge may not be straight. I wish they had included instructions with set - it would have saved me a lot of headaches. Be sure to watch the short video online - it will make you a pro at this in no time.

By Robbie Cox (Washington NC US)

Nice demostrating on the router bits. Now I really am going to buy the bits for my cabinet making process. The other videos I have seen is great too. (the dove tail video)

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Average Customer Rating: (5 reviews)
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By Mikaol Daley (Ames Io )

I used 7733 set to make 4 different hardwood edges on a lazy susan. Made for a great effect.

By R Alex (Vancouver WA US)

I am very pleased with the #7828 set with the #7733 matching bits and #7804 trim bit. As others mention, be very patient and careful with set-up on scraps of the same thickness as your work piece--when you're spot-on save those for set-up jigs and to periodically check your finished product to be sure nothing is drifting. I made multiple passes of 1/16-1/8" on the router table for both the tongue and the groove to reach full depth. The cleat or fence affixed to the workpiece with two sided tape is essential (see video). I used vertical feather boards on the router table for all operations and horizontal feather boards where possible on narrower work pieces. I personally found calipers better than a steel rule for tuning-in the set-up--more precise and easier to read. The flush trimming operation requires a wide base on the router and clamping additional square and true temporary pieces to the 3/4" thick shelves I was making to ensure a wide, stable reference surface for the hand held router base. (The shelves were too wide for the router table & fence.)

By Garry Kravit (Plantation Fl US)

I just set up my new edge banding bits and on the first try, after watching your video I got a perfect test fit. This is going to make the artists' taborets I manufacture so much better!! www.theultimatetaboret.com.

Wish I could include a photo of my first test piece here. You can view it here: www.garrykravit.com/edgetest.html

By Bill Lindhurst (LAKEWOOD Co US)

I have the #7733 set, and love it! I also use it for making corner joints for Guitar speaker cabinets, by ripping a "2x4" into 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" corners, and matching the plywood end cuts for the cabinet sides to that. Makes a really STRONG corner joint!!!

By William Dawson (Garden Ridge TX US)

BE VERY CAREFUL during set up. The video demonstrates the 5433/7733 model which may be easier to set up than the 7732 model. Once you've 'tuned' the bits MAKE A TEMPLATE from scrap. Running 6 plus feet of material seemed to cause a very minor slip in my router height setting so template CHECK your set up after every pass. For wide shelf work it is not feasible to stand your work up when finishing off THE EXTRA MOLDING LIP with a pattern bit. take time to build a base plate for your router to run on the narrow edge also set the bearing at the 'lip' of the edge molding.

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