

"Mitered" Door Frame Bits
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Great for mirror and picture frames!
These versatile carbide tipped router bits create a dramatic door frame without complicated joinery. Great for mirror and picture frames, crown moldings, chair rails and other trim. Combine with any raised panel router bit to create highly decorative raised panel doors that until now have only been available through high end cabinet shops. Use a 1/4" slot cutter to create the slot for the raised panel or a rabbeting bit to make glass panel doors, mirrors or picture frames. The stock is mitered at 45°, glued and biscuit joined to create a sturdy secure joint. These bits are designed to work with 2-13/16" wide stock and a recommended thickness of at least 3/4". For cup hinges, use 1" thick stock (minimum). Use in a 1/2" table mounted router only. Click on the picture above to see an enlarged picture of the completed doors.See the K-Premium version!
See Mitered Door Frame Complete Kits below.
See a customer's kitchen made from our bits.


all customer reviews and ratings
Average Customer Rating: (4 reviews)
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By Golf Nut (Greensboro Ge US)
Used the 8781/8788 to redo my master bathroom cabinet doors and drawers. Love the results.
Here are some hints that might help others after viewing the video:
1) If you use 1" stock for your frames as was my case, use 3/4" stock for the panels. Also, leave the panels 1/4" below the surface of the frames with a 1/4" cove - it will look so much better.
2) Use as many finger joints as possible while routing. This way you do not have to waste stock.
3) I made a special jig to go along with my 45 degree sliding sled to ensure exact frame lengths - I needed 18 drawers/doors to make. This helped tremendously.
4) When using the slot cutter (larger 8781 frames only) make sure you give yourself a little play in the cut else your finished frames might not have exactly flush corners.

By Richard Benns (Louisville Ke US)
I ordered the 8781 bit. I set it up in my router table and ran my cherry stock thru it. When the bearing contacted my stock on the final pass, the top flute was still flat on top. I determined that the bottom of the cutter for the top flute was still behind the bearing. The only way to remedy this was to remove the bearing and use the fence to adjust the depth. Fortunately, my fence is adjustable in .001" increments.
Another tip, make sure the collet on your router has no sawdust in the grooves. If it does, it will not grip this bit tight enough and it will "lever" up during cutting. I ruined 2 pieces of cherry until I discovered this.

By ildelisa becerra (santa ana ca US)
No comment.

By Donny Summerfield (Gravette AR US)
It is as easy as it looks in the video makes very nice frame. I was worried about biscuit joint. I had never messed with biscuits very strong, surprising strong and fast. My other big worry was cup hinges description calls for 1 in thick stock, I used 3/4 in thick scrap drilled 1/2in deep and had plenty of room perfect. I got item 8781. Don't think, just buy it.